Active Japan: Hokkaido in Winter, Sea Ice to Onsens

Hokkaido in winter doesn't do subtle either — everything's just quieter under snow. Snowshoe deep into the frozen hush of Shiretoko Five Lakes, drift across sea ice off the coast, and spend an afternoon with the Ainu Kotan learning stories older than the season itself. The reward comes at dusk, in a traditional onsen, snow still falling outside.